Hi pals! Welcome back to the blog. Today I am showing you exactly how to read a pattern, whether it be knit, crochet, or Tunisian crochet, and what everything on them even means. Now some of this might be SUPER basic info, but to keep anyone from getting mixed up I am going SUPER basic, because everyone deserves to learn and I needed someone to go down to the simplest version for me too.

I am using my Prism Cardigan pattern today as an example. This is one of my designs from last year (2023) and one I am quite proud of. I designed it for Hobbii and really fell in love with the way the yarn worked up and how the design came together. This one isn’t sized properly, so if you want to test any size from 1x – 5x (48 inches – 66 inch chest) please send me an email at Sam@SamBartley.com and I will get the size sent over to you. Oh, and if you want to snag a PDF for yourself on Ravelry, use code FreePrism from now until September 30th, 2024 to get yourself a free copy.

This post does contain affiliate links. I explain those a bit more below, but they are just links I use from Amazon that allow me to make a small commission off your order, at no additional cost to you. This helps me keep the website running and the patterns free. Thank you for using them!

How to read a pattern

Let’s start out with “what does a pattern even look like?”.

Don’t worry if you can’t see those clearly, I have larger images below for you to reference.

A pattern is (normally) made up of a few different main parts and then, depending on the designer, there may be a few additions to it that aren’t listed in my patterns. I will talk about those near the end, but just stick with me as we work through this step by step. I also will probably say “hook” a lot, but if you are a knitter, just replace that with needles. I’m just talking about the tools being used, and I started with crochet so I default to a hook. :)

Reading a pattern – Section 1 & 2

Section 1 – Title

Section 1 is pretty simple when it comes to reading a pattern, it’s just your pattern title, sometime they will specifically list the craft. I label mine Crochet, Knit, or Tunisian crochet because I write them all. If the designer only designs knitwear they might not specify right at the top.

Section 2 – Description/Disclaimer

This section can be a little different with each designer too, but we all tend to put the details of the pattern here, a disclaimer, and sometimes we also write a little info about the pattern, where our inspiration came from, and more info on the yarn. I tend to write all of that at the beginning of my blog posts, but some put that info in their patterns too.

At the bottom of each page I also like to have the name of the design, my name, and what page number it is, just in case you print it out and your papers get mixed up.

How to read a pattern – Section 3-6

Section 3 – Project Supplies

Project supplies can be one of the tricky ones. This is normally where the designer will tell you the yarn needed, what hooks/needles, and any additional materials. I tend to include the basics, like scissors and a tapestry needle, but some may not. I also add in here any links to items you may need that I used for the pattern, including affiliate links for the yarns or products.

You never have to use an affiliate link, just search for it instead of clicking on the link, but know those affiliate links don’t cost you extra and it provides a tiny commission back to the designer to help support them. Personally, I don’t recommend something I haven’t used extensively, but that may not be the case for all designers.

Section 4 – Pattern Sizes / Measurements

This is where you will find out the sizing of the patterns and pick which one you are going to make. To be honest, this one is a bad example, because it is one of my older patterns, but stick with me. Sizing can be tricky, everyone does it a little different. I design all tops(as of summer of 2024) for a 28 inch chest to a 66 inch chest. I don’t really do “xs” or letters, but more “size 1 – 28 inches” etc. This just makes it easier to highlight “size 1″ vs 28”. Just a little longer of spot imo.

Section 5 – Pattern Notes

Pattern notes are the section I recommend reading at least twice. This section will have everything you need to know about the pattern before starting it. If the chains at the beginning of rows count as a stitch. If it’s worked in the round or back and forth rows. If there are stitch counts and how those are marked. And any other notes the designer can think of to make your project experience the easiest it can be.

Section 6 – Abbreviations

Abbreviations are just a section to note what our abbreviations mean. To some, “ch” automatically reads “chain”, but to others they may have no idea what “ch” means, so having a quick reference for the reader makes it a little easier than writing out “chain” or “half double crochet in the 3rd loop” shorter and easier for the reader to print out or read on their ipad/kindle. This can also be where they will let you know if they are using UK or US terms when referring to their stitches. In the UK a single crochet is called a double crochet while being the exact same stitch, so that will definitely change up what you’re making if you don’t know. NORMALLY if its not listed, its US terms. But just check the pattern notes and the abbreviations sections just in case it’s not.

How to read a pattern – Sections 7 – 9

Section 7 – Pattern Directions

Pattern directions. This is where the magic starts. Nothing special about this section, just know anything under it will be the steps to make the project you’re working on. MAKE SURE TO READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING THE PATTERN. There may be notes, tips, tricks, and important information along the way that might be helpful to know about ahead of time.

Section 8 – Gauge

Ohhhh get ready for me to get on my soap box about gauge and I’m throwing blocking in as well. Gauge is one of the most important parts when it comes to creating clothing or anything you want to make that has a finished size “requirement”, meaning you either want it to fit or want it to be big/small enough to match what the designer made. This matters in cardigans, blankets, sweaters, shirts, pants, skirts, shorts, beanies/hats, and many other things.

Here’s where it gets spicy. A lot of people think gauge doesn’t matter, and they may be right sometimes. I don’t make a gauge swatch for washcloths or amigurumi or coasters or things like that. The finished project will be close enough that if I am off a stitch or two it won’t really matter. But if you’re making a sweater and the gauge says 8 stitches x 7 rows makes a 4 inch square, but when I make 8 stitches by 7 rows my square is 5 inches, my gauge is off and my sweater won’t fit

• To break it down a little more that means the patterns gauge is measuring 2 stitches in every 1 inch width wise. So If 1 inch = 2 stitches, then a 30 inch chest would be 60 stitches. At the measurements for my swatch, 1 inch = 1.6 stitches, so if I wanted a 30 inch chest I would have to make approx. 48 stitches instead (or go down a hook size and test that out first). This might have totally confused you though, so if that’s the case and you’re working on something and the gauge isn’t matching, message me and i’ll walk you through it. My pattern or someone elses, doesn’t matter.

I know it seems like a waste of time, I know it seems like a waste of yarn, but most designers account for a gauge swatch in their yardage measurements (at least I know I do) and taking the 30 minutes to make a swatch can and probably will save you HOURS of frogging later on. The heartbreak of finishing a sweater only to block it and realize its 3 sizes too big is one of the worst crafting nightmares if I am being honest. Just make the swatch, BLOCK the swatch, and then you truly have everything you need to make sure the project is going to fit properly.

No, you don’t NEED to block your projects. Acrylic stretches a lot if you “kill” it (steaming too close to the yarn can melt it a little bit which will stretch out the fibers and it will lose its “bounce back”), wool can shrink or felt if you are using too hot of water or agitate it too much (but you really have to agitate it for the felting, think tossing it in the washing machine and then dryer…. Not that I did that with my Barbie crop top… nope that didn’t happen…), and cotton just does whatever it wants to 99% of the time, so check your fiber content on the yarn label, check its care instructions while you’re there, and worst case scenario, google it or message me and we can guide you to the right blocking method.

Wait, there’s more than one blocking method? YES. Steam blocking, wet blocking, and spray blocking are the 3 most common ones I know about and use. Steam blocking involves using a garment steamer (or an iron on the steam setting, but for the love of all of the yarn be careful with that one). Wet blocking involves soaking your item in a sink/bucket/bath for about 20 minutes in a rinse free wool wash with warmish water, then pinning it down to a blocking board in the measurements you need it to be. And spray blocking involves laying the garment down on your blocking mats or towel, pinning it down, and misting it with water to stretch it out to where you want it to go and then letting it dry. I recommend steam and wet blocking for wool/wool blends, and spray blocking for acrylic, but make a few swatches with some scrap yarn and see which way you prefer for your fibers!

So how do you correct it and why does it actually matter? Well, there are a few ways you can correct it. The first thing I try and do is I swap hook sizes. I will go up or down a half to a full hook size and try again. If that doesn’t work it’s time to break out the math. With my current hook, how many stitches = 4 inches? How many rows? Take those numbers from your gauge and the patterns gauge and you should be able to figure out your starting chain or cast on from there. This gauge calculator from Joy of Motion is a great resource too.

Section 9 – Pattern Steps

Now we have gotten to the good part. These are the pattern’s steps. For most items, they will be broken down into sections. For example, a sweater may have “collar” “yoke” “body” “sleeves” “bottom hem”. Or a blanket may have “blanket” “border” “finishing”. But every pattern should have headings for each step in the pattern.

How to read a pattern – Section 10

Section 10 – Finishing

Finishing notes! This pattern doesn’t really have any finishing notes, but I could probably add a few in. Finishing is essentially all of the things you need to do to, well, finish your project. Wet blocking or steam blocking, weaving in ends, starching, all of those things could be considered finishing. I tend to put “weave in your ends” at the end of each “Pattern Step” because I try and convince myself I am a “weave in your ends as you go” kinda maker, but really I just wait until the end and curse myself every time.

And those are all the parts of a pattern! I think I covered everything, but if you happen to come across something in a pattern I don’t cover, just send me an email and ask and I can get this updated with the new info too!

Thanks for reading friends, I can’t wait to share with you what I’ve got coming next!

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