Welcome back to the blog pals! Today I am sharing with you my Magical Garden Cardigan free crochet pattern! This one is written a little differently than some of my other patterns, but I really didn’t know how else to get all the details to you without a few charts of sorts. But also I had to make it difficult on myself and make a VARIETY of granny squares, so there’s that too.
You can totally make this Magical Garden Cardigan with a different yarn, but I do recommend using the combo listed below. There is just something about the softness of the cotton silk mixed with the halo from the diablo that really makes it something special. But any really soft dk/light worsted weight yarn will do.
Anyway, I hope this all makes sense, and if it doesn’t just send me an email or comment below and I can always help guide you through it. I appreciate you pals!
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Patterns and images are owned by SamBartleyDesigns. Do not reproduce, duplicate, redistribute, or sell. Sale of products made using this pattern is 100% allowed and encouraged; when selling online, credit SamBartleyDesigns.
Project Supplies
- Hobbii Cotton Silk and Diablo held double, a dk held with mohair, or a light worsted weight yarn (yardage estimate below).
- Size 5.0mm hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
Pattern Notes
- Please read all notes and the entire pattern before starting the pattern. I have notes throughout it that you may want to highlight or take note of.
- Granny squares are made in joined rounds using the magic circle to start them. You can use other ways to start your squares, I just don’t have instructions for those.
- The Magical Garden Cardigan is made up by holding one strand of Cotton Silk with one strand of Diablo together. You will make 40 – 65 granny squares, depending on the size you choose, and after seaming them together you will make your sleeves.
- I gave a recommendation of placement below for the front and back panels, but this is 100% optional. If you want to follow the yardage amounts for a Size 2, follow the placement below. I did not pattern test this for size 3 and 4 (I ran out of time to make one in each size, and I only have a few testers that I just didn’t have enough time to give them to make this, that’s on me. If you want to test this for me and let me know of any adjustments, yardage, or notes you want to provide please send me an email @ sam@sambartley.com and I will get it all adjusted and taken care of. I appreciate you!)
I used 6 balls of pink yarn, 3 balls of dark green, 3 balls of light green, and 7 balls of Diablo mohair for a Size 2 made with the placement below.
Cotton Silk yardage Size 2 total: 1572
Mohair yardage Size 2 total: 1715
Sizes
- Size 1 – 40 inch chest
- Size 2 – 50 inch chest
- Size 3 – 60 inch chest
- Size 4 – 70 inch chest
Abbreviations
All patterns follow the same abbreviations as the Crafty Yarn Council.
| ch | Chain |
| mc | Magic Circle |
| sc | Single Crochet |
| dc2tog | Double crochet 2 stitches together |
| scblo | Single crochet in the back loop only |
| dc | Double crochet |
| slst | Slip Stitch |
Pattern Directions
Front and Back Panels
Gauge
Granny Squares = 5 Inch square blocked
Granny Square Directions:
I also have a video tutorial on how to make a granny square.
Round 1: Using a magic circle (the video tutorial shows you how I do this in detail), chain 3, and make 2 dc (counts as 3 dc). Chain 2, place 3 more dc. Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Ch 2. (*if you are changing colors, this is the spot you want to change them.*) slst to the top of the ch 3.
Round 2: Ch 3 and place 2 dc in the same stitch (counts as 3 dc). In the corner, place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Repeat in each corner until you reach the starting corner, then make 3 dc in the starting corner, ch 2, (*if you are changing colors, this is the spot you want to change them.*) slst to the top of the ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 3 and place 2 dc in the same stitch (counts as 3 dc). In the first open space place 3dc. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in the next open space. In the next corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in the next open space. In the next corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in the next open space. In the final corner make 3 dc, ch 2, (*if you are changing colors, this is the spot you want to change them.*) slst to the top of the ch 3.
Round 4: Ch 3 and place 2 dc in the same stitch (counts as 3 dc). In the two open spaces on the side place 3 dc in each spot. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next two open spaces. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next two open spaces. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next two open spaces. In the final corner place 3 dc, ch 2, (*if you are changing colors, this is the spot you want to change them.*) slst to the top of the ch 3.
Round 5: Ch 3 and place 2 dc in the same stitch (counts as 3 dc). In the three open spaces on the side place 3 dc in each spot. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next three open spaces. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next three open spaces. In the corner place *3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc*. Place 3 dc in each of the next three open spaces. In the final corner place 3 dc, ch 2, slst to the top of the ch 3.
Finish off and weave in your ends.
Seaming Directions:
I used the zig-zag slst method to seam my squares together, shoulders, and sides.
For the sides I stopped seaming at these spots:
Size 1 & 2: Stop seaming 1 and ½ squares from the top of the shoulder.
Size 3: Stop seaming 2 squares from the top of the shoulder.
Size 4: Stop seaming 2 and ½ squares from the top of the shoulder.
Sleeves: (make 2)
Attaching your yarn to the underarm, dc around evenly, slst to join, ch 3. (48, 64, 80)
Continue to dc around each row until you get to an inch above where you want your cuff to fall. I changed colors after every row and crocheted for 21 rows.
Row 22 (or whatever row you end on): *Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc2tog*. Repeat * to * around. Slst to join, ch 3.
Row 23- Dc around. Slst to join, ch 3.
Row 24- *Dc in the first stitch, dc2tog* Repeat * to * around. Slst to join, ch 3.
Row 25 & 26: Dc around. Slst to join, ch 3.
Row 27: Dc around. Slst to join, ch 6.
(this is where you start making the ribbing for the cuff.)
Sc in the second ch from the hook and the next 4 stitches (5 sc). Slst to the arm of the cardigan, slst in the next stitch, *scblo down the 5 stitches on the cuff. Ch 1, scblo in the next 5 stitches, slst to the cardigan, slst in the next stitch.* Repeat * to * until you have made your cuff all the way around. Slst each side of the cuff to each other and weave in your ends.
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